This will be a 2-parter.
First, here, is a piece I published in 2011.
Part 2 will be an analysis of subject matter progression since publication.
Some small editing has been done for formatting purposes.
Food On Film: Our
Just Desserts?
Every new generation
is mentored by the ones that came before, bearing echoes of
their preferences and tendencies. However as time
passes, those core facets shift and reform into a new identity to
better fit the psyche of the next generation. Vagaries aside, such
things are exemplified by the changing state of food in the public
eye. The evolution of food, cooking, and restaurant life as detailed
through the media (television in particular) through the past fifty
years, has shown a constant fluid shift in preferences and popular
trends, while maintaining the appeal of classics through various
methods of rebranding. With constant improvements in media
technology, the sensationalist aspect of food becomes vastly
easier to express and explain to a studio and at-home audience.
Side by side with
the evolution of food in the public eye, another popularized
television movement was fitness, and the combination of those two
concepts on a growing television audience had nothing but positive
potential. Better food, better eating habits, and better physical
fitness were all starting to make themselves known to nationwide
audiences here in the United States. Now, some fifty years later, the
cynics are laughing.
Food-related
programming grew more and more popular as the utility of it grew. The
first real trendsetter in food television here in the United States
was Julia Child with her program The French Chef. Displaying classic dishes and basic sundry-centric staples fit for families
across the country, her pep and personality carried the day even when
her skills dropped out of the camera's eye. Occasional fumbling endeared her that much more to her audience of hesitant housewives,
who took heart from her boldness and bravado to try and recreate her
celluloid successes for their families and friends.
On the fitness side
was someone who had the same vim and vigor, but vastly different
motivation and methodology. Jack Lalanne, in his self-titled Jack
Lalanne Show, displayed the very same urge towards satisfaction.
He prompted his audience to get up, get moving, and get fit, working
through each and every part of the body to better not just
themselves, but to inspire everyone around them to do the same.
Both food and
fitness grew in popularity through the decades, with new faces rising
to prominence in each field. Through the late 1960s to early 1970s,
The Galloping Gourmet ruled the airwaves, its host Graham
Kerr ultimately collaborating with Julia Child to great effect. The
1970s gave way to Jeff Smith and The Frugal Gourmet on the
culinary front, and while Jack Lalanne continued his hard work with
fitness, the rise to prominence of a man called Richard Simmons was
also well on the way.
The first major foray into widespread 'nutritional science', pioneered by the infamous Dr. Robert Atkins, showed its face in 1972. Atkins introduced his “Diet Revolution”, a high-protein,
high-fat, low-carbohydrate diet and a bevy of evidence about the benefits. Shortly afterward in 1974,
Richard Simmons’ program Ruffage and the popularity of his
Anatomy Asylum gym debuted to promote the combination of
exercise and healthy eating.
Fast-forward another fifteen years or so, a new fire sparked viewers with the 1993 debut of Food Network Television- an entire station devoted to nothing but food and its myriad facets. Every kitchen professional mentioned so far appeared again, to once more dazzle audiences old and new. They weren't alone- a great many fresh, new faces arrived sporting sharp knives and sharper skills to tantalize the wide-eyed watchers.
And yet despite all
of these advances and approvals in the industries, intended
audiences seemed to snub the messages the
performers sought to inspire. As obesity runs rampant,
juvenile diabetes rates have skyrocketed, and advertisements for fast
food rule the airwaves as the
selfsame garbage fills the supermarket freezer case. How could two
subjects that spent so many years developing their value in the
public eye have fallen so easily to the wayside in favor of corporate
marketing and painfully transparent advertising campaigns? Does the couch-bound, captive audience have a particular disdain
for hard work? Is making something look bad on television that much easier than making it look good? Or
is it really only money they want, regardless of the cost to the
public?
Whose
cuisine reigns supreme? Whoever paid the most for ads, it seems. Now go kick back and eat those instant noodles.
Bon appétit.