Cookbook Review: "Flavors of Oakland", by Anya Ku and Elazar Sontag

One of the interesting things about living in the East Bay is how much local history can be found preserved in some crack or crevice. In a larger city, such places are much more transient, and thus harder to define. Oakland being smaller and more close-knit than, say, San Francisco, has a deep-set community with all sorts of intriguing checkered history, with many stories shared by longtime residents to any who will hear them. Thus, we have 'Flavors of Oakland'.

      

This oddly shaped volume is penned and put together by Anya and Elazar, a pair of (at the time) high schoolers steeped in that rich, communal, multicultural environment. It appears an earnest effort to take those stories straight from the mouths of the community, and offer them up alongside recipes- whether of their experience, their heritage, or even their church potluck. Given that the book was crowdfunded, clearly the people being represented very much liked what what was being done, so that's a strong positive right at the start.

The locals highlighted in this book come from what seems like everywhere (Oaxaca, Eritrea, Venezuela, Vietnam, Goa, and more beyond). To call such varied backgrounds 'local' sounds odd at first, but that's part of why it's so important to do it. When you take the time to make a neighborhood your home, the give and take helps build a community full of diverse experiences and insights that meld to become a still-greater whole.

Whether from a casual glance or a thorough, dedicated read, that ethos comes through in spades as one turns the pages. Every face within the book seems to shine with the earnestness that comes when someone really cares about what they're doing and why they're doing it. They all want to be there, to share their food and tell their story. 

Just as important is the feel that that's where their ambitions end- a welcome and refreshing feeling in the age of the aspiring short-term celebrity. It's not just about the individuals, but the many differences between them, and the shared desire to express a special something about the place they all call home.

As far as the recipes go, they're as diverse as they come, but each still has that home-cooked comfort food vibe. None are wholly alien to me, though a few I haven't yet eaten in some form or other. The recipes use home kitchen notions, and measures rather than weights- which in this case is a deliberate stylistic choice rather than a black mark, noted in a 'How To Read This Book' page. The only issue I have with that is the vagueness that can come with measuring flour, but it's no big deal here.

While a few of the recipes benefit from a stand mixer or food processor, most people will have little trouble preparing any recipe they take a liking to in this volume as long as they can get the ingredients. The recipes don't mention cleanup though, and a few of them are likely to have you lamenting the state of your kitchen afterward, so be sure to read them through and think about them before going shopping. I'm not spoiling that for you though!

Now we get to the interesting bit.

The locals' stories shown here are supposed to feel familiar, like everyday people. The writing style helps sell that feel to some degree- the prose is simple and repetitive, but surprisingly well edited to maintain brevity without loss of impact or purpose. 

When it comes to 'home cooks in home kitchens' though, the story changes. Most of them are- but looking a little deeper, enough are caterers, chefs, or parts of restaurant families that one has to wonder at who knew who to help make this book happen. Compounding that, the preface was penned by Oakland's then-mayor, and the foreword by Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo. No small ask, to have them step in and cosign. And given what's happened for the authors since, I suspect their careers got one hell of a push.

Still. While the hometown pride aspect may have been punched up a little to better camouflage the professionals mingling among them, that doesn't make it less effective or lower quality, and in fact does a fine job at telling the story of Oakland while sharing its salt, smoke, spice, and special sense of self. As someone who lives walking distance from a number of the restauants and places mentioned, I very much respect their attention to detail and absolute fidelity to the neighborhood. 

For the east coasters (New Yorkers in particular), it's reminiscent of the vaguely lauded Red Rooster in Harlem, where Marcus Samuelsson works to prop up a community by creating a space for its history, food, and culture... except Oakland is being much more subtle about it.

This is a difficult concept to frame and express. 'Flavors of Oakland' does an excellent job.

Got a few more local restaurants for my list to go have a taste of too. Perhaps reviews of those are soon to come- let's go exploring!

Pride

 Here, perhaps a half hour from San Francisco, it will likely be quite a vigorous affair come this weekend.
As with any well-intended struggle towards social progress though, there is always conflict bubbling just beneath the surface. 

Puritan-minded children forgetting their history. Religious extremists shiny-eyed with false righteousness. Flag-wrapped right-wingers spreading venom and nonsense. Tourists.

They all dangle the bait, hoping desperately to be given a chance to cry assault, harassment, to unleash hell in 'self-defense'. They are shielded in part by the insidious, oppresssive presence from 'law enforcement', who should never be welcome.  Anything but inaction and invisibility from such an organization defines them as an enemy of progress. By and large they are naught but extortionists with badges and guns, seeking to protect the wealthy, and thus the status quo. 

They work hand in hand with corporations as they rainbow-wash all they can see and warp the struggle into a milquetoast advertising affair, fabricating a false neutral ground. But it's always clear that not a one of them really has our backs.

So, struggles aplenty from within and without, and not a hint of subtlety to any of it, either. Which, at least to me, is a clear statement of the underlying problem.

Individual identity is a privilege. It has many requirements. Those who scorn the most important ones tend to reveal themselves during things like Pride- detractors, supporters, and 'supporters' alike.

Pride exists as an indignant, fed-up response against relentless efforts to prevent the betterment of chronically mistreated, oppressed minorities. 

Consider: why would a person try to stop another from having access to like privileges?

Simply because those in the way of progress know, deep down, that they have already been left behind. They do not meet the requirements to be a part of the world we struggle to build, so they fight to keep us in this one.

Outsourcing? In *MY* Local Newspaper?

Looks like the SF Chronicle once again forgot that there are many local experts waiting for their support. Mackenzie Chung Feegan, huh? Well... hm.

From a technical standpoint, she's not bad. She manages to produce some work worthy of aplomb once in a while- I remembered her name from this gentle evisceration some years back that had me giggling like a stoned hyena. I know exactly the kind of person highlighted there- the uninformed, out of their depth Asianesque dabbler I've spent my entire career supplanting and trying to either educate or eradicate.

But... the Chronicle needs a food critic, and she's not one.

That's okay sometimes. Successful food critics can come from anywhere. Sometimes it's political journalism, other times music, or from what might seem like nowhere at all to some. Understanding the environment and intended audience is every bit as important as the technicalities of the literary and artistic approach, and the willingness to develop that understanding is the key to longevity in such a position.

The job needs someone who can write, of course. But for a location like this, it needs a great deal more. The SF Bay is a hub on par with NYC or Tokyo- places steeped in cultural subtleties borrowed from all across the world and gently nudged (or sometimes vigorously muscled) into something uniquely local. 

To do right by such a place, it calls for someone attentive, alert, and well informed on the industry and area alike. It also needs someone patient enough to ignore the cash-heavy hype that ebbs and flows around restaurants in the Bay Area, and disciplined enough not to endorse without suitable cause.

Given that she's migrating from a Senior Editor role at Bon Appetit magazine in NYC, I'm very much disinclined to believe that last bit. So it's a thumbs down from me till proven otherwise.

In fairness though, I put in for the position myself some years back. The Chronicle ignored me entirely and gave it to Soleil Ho instead. Writing chops aside, I didn't think she was up to the very specific rigors of it at the time, and despite her critical acclaim (including a Beard award in 2022 for her restaurant reviews), I was proven correct.

Let's see if I go 2 for 2, shall we?

Stop Giving Money To Assholes!

It seems obvious, right? But apparently the locals (which recently came to include me) sometimes disagree. This is the shit I hate. The sort of person whose reliance on transient, unreliable things like blatant demographic pandering, trends, or memery spits on the advanced knowledge and perspective of experienced, validated professionals. Actively, aggressively hound them out of the public eye, shame their backers into backing out, and eye their motivations postmortem. The world has no need to support such immature inadequacies.

Give us those restaurant spaces. Give us that financial backing. Most times, professionals are too cautious to strike out on our own because we care. We know the many, many risks, and don't want to hurt anyone else if things don't work out right. But in this context, that doesn't even matter. We deserve those opportunities. We deserve the backing and support to create something that's worthy of being there- of being at all!

Sharing a great deal of common ground with that problem- there's a distressingly large number of wealthy 'investors' that think ROI is supposed to be something other than social capital when it comes to investing in small businesses. The actual goal is always to build a thriving, sustainable, largely self-sufficient community. To create a comfortable environment for those nearby, and a draw for those farther afield.

But the more money people are willing to throw at things, the more likely their outlook is to strip-mine instead. When the faces of the pump-and-dump operation also buy in to that strip-mining plan, they take advantage of things like local community generosity and goodwill, tear the life out of the very places they claim to be an integral part of, and ride into the sunset with full pockets, leaving behind battered neighborhoods and broken promises.

Too many people with too much money try to understand cost and fail to understand value, and too many people without enough money to succeed will cheerfully exchange their principles and ethics instead. Each and every one is a blight on the human condition, and a weight on the shoulders of those carrying its future.

Cookbook Review: "Izakaya", by Mark Robinson

For several reasons, I had to take a closer look at this one once I saw it on the shelf. 

I actually worked in a Japanese-owned izakaya kitchen some years back, so I have firsthand experience of some of the minutiae from the opposite side of the curtain. They liked me a lot- enough that they later said they thought I could take over running the place so they could retire and go back to Nagano. But they found that out too late. Three days before I walked in and was hired, they'd sold the place. So we all comisserated in mutual regret, and I did the best I could by them, making sure everyone got quality food and service till the day the place closed.

Plenty of people are fascinated with some aspect or other of Asia, but far fewer spend the time and effort to really understand. Norms in different parts of the world vary widely, but the historical and cultural reasoning behind why they are as they are? Frequently ignored. As such, I'm always on the hunt for the uncommon volume where someone does the digging and tries to work their way back toward the origins for institutions or concepts like this.

On a related, Japan-specific note, we also have to at least gently address the Tokyo Problem. Japan is infinitely more than Tokyo, but there's a notorious habit of books getting stuck there. However, the microcosmic effect isn't quite so bad when addressing a concept that's both pretty ubiquitous and also somewhat vigorously resistant to short-term cultural trends. While this volume is centered in Tokyo, it feels more 'tight research budget' than 'tunnel vision', so I let it slide. Given the subject matter, you could almost say it's centered in Edo instead.

The book, thematically, reads a lot like an izakaya might feel. It tells many fine stories with the same casual comfort you might get from walking into one for the night. Even the layout is vaguely evocative of them- the font is small and the text cramped, but it's all tighty organized in its own way. History lessons and basic etiquette are sprinkled in between what could best be described as love songs to eight izakaya all around the city. Each very distinct in its own way, different stories highlighting all sorts of things, from the establishments or owners to their staff, customers, methods, and legacies.

Some of the historical notes are a little handwavey, noting that izakaya most likely evolved organically from noodle shops and niuriya (煮売り屋) from the Edo period onward. Things like yakitori, now often associated with izakaya, became popular later on in the Meiji period, eventually leading to the first Western-influenced izakaya, Bar Kamiya in Asakusa being opened in ~1880. This is more or less where the concept was cemented (and why I typically translate 'izakaya' as 'brewpub').

Recipes usually follow a few pages behind their pictures all throughout the book, showcasing staples as readily as strange things. Right alongside a simple surimi/udon stirfry, for example, there's a method for curing tofu in miso that's basically just "do x, y, and z, then leave it in the fridge for two years". What you get out of this book in terms of useful recipes and techniques may vary widely in accordance with your skillsets and personal preferences, but I will say there's plenty of fundamentals for the relative beginner to pick up. Similarly, there's a section on Japanese ingredients, aromatics, and flavors that offers very useful basic to intermediate information.

If you're looking for a cookbook, I'd say this is a good but not great primer for basic Japanese snacks and nibbles. If you're looking for a thoughtful, friendly look at a cornerstone of modernish Japan's culinary culture, this is a book for you. Grab a drink and something to munch, sit down somewhere that's comfy but not cushy, and enjoy them all at your leisure.

James Beard Awards 2023: The Rework's Results

Much of the food world is hard to find, let alone display, and since all of it is at least nominally subjective there's no way everything laudable can be found, analyzed, and offered appropriate accolades. But the Beard Awards are supposed to try, and given the mess that's been the last several years, I decided to take a closer look this time round and see how they did.

The opening show and interviews were a bit of a mess- lots of food and drink people that are much less comfortable on live camera than their tv and miscellaneous media personas would suggest. Similarly, plenty of chitchat about the red carpet fashions from people who were clearly dressed by their sponsors, but that's not a big deal. Expecting the finest fashion knowhow here is silly, but they certainly all put in some work. The Beard Awards have been likened to the Oscars of the food world, and so a little side-by-side served to set the mood.

A quick moment from Kris Moon, the JBA COO, was full of platitudes about creating a more inclusive, equitable environment in the food and beverage industry.

"Excellence in purpose and process" is a noble notion, but it never seems to come across as fully genuine, especially surrounded by large-brand corporate sponsorships. The longer I watched though, the more my cynicism faded in the background, and the more it seemed to feel genuine... until the hosts felt honored to speak on behalf of their sponsors. But eh. You can't have everything.

There was also plenty of scattered talk about optics and legacies from longtime veterans and former winners. No real surprise on the emphasis there, given the massive upheaval and reorganization of the Association's priorities over the past few years. This seemed to be a suitable field test- highlighted even in the first award, as the 'Emerging Chef 'award went to a protege of last year's winner.

During the "pregame show" interviews I bet myself that the most outre thing in every category would be the odds-on favorite to win, and let me tell you the cynic in me got a lot of vindication over the next few hours. 

The first new category, 'Outstanding Bakery' going to a tortilleria had me strongly considering the possibility of overt pandering- but I was stoked to see a more intriguing winner nonetheless, and plan to do some digging into Yoli, because having worked with Gonzalo Guzmán  of Nopalito, I know a thing or three about the minutiae involved, and damn.

The Lifetime Achievement Award this year was another excellent decision. They gave the winner away early- it's the exceptional and iconic Madhur Jaffrey. After over fifty years in the industry, she's more than earned her innumerable accolades. Sadly, she couldn't be there in person (who can blame her, she's relentlessly busy and about ninety years old!) but her pre-filmed segment was full of simple, earnest joy. It had me waxing nostalgic and nodding with a grin, even if it were tainted by Priya Krishna here and there.

The Humanitarian Award going to the Black Farmer Fund via Olivia Watkins and Karen "Mama K" Washington was also a delightful step forward in terms of ethical activism in the food world. Highlighting the struggles of marginalized communities against aggressive, active discrimination is something that never gets enough note. This has been a long time coming, and perhaps it'll be enough to jumpstart some positive change at a broader scale, as the notoriety of awards like this can sometimes manage. (Jose Andres's constant yelling 'support somebody else!' has clearly done some good too)

When the category for 'Outstanding Wine' was expanded to 'and Other Beverages', I was similarly pleased. I'm much more of a liquor and non-alcohol specialist, so seeing that placed on a similar pedestal worked wonders for nudging the Fussy French notion of wine supremacy out of the way. Wine's all well and good, but there is so much more beyond it- and the winner was immediately a step aside from wine, going to Ototo in LA- a sake bar!

A more classic category, 'Outstanding Bar', went to the highly regarded Bar Leather Apron in Honolulu. While I don't know much about it personally, I know some folks from Hawaii who do, and I definitely heard some cheering.

The Best Chefs category was, of course, regional, and it seemed tailor-made to highlight unexpected places in those regions. Not just that, but each one seemed to focus to some greater or lesser degree on marginalized cultures, significant struggles, or underappreciated concepts, and managed to do it while not seeming pandering or gratuitous (which left me grudgingly impressed). Similarly, the guest announcers for certain categories and regions felt much more honestly supportive than they felt suspect.  

The first one of those that really had me enthused was the marvelous Monti Carlo. She's always been a delight since I first saw her many years on season 3 of Masterchef, and ever since as a tireless advocate for Puerto Rico and the Spanish-speaking side of the restaurant community at large. She brought her best to the mike: "We've been filling these kitchens for so many years, and now we're finally filling out this room.". That is how you make your airtime count. Millions of silent and stifled stories instantly invoked in a single sentence. Glorious.

To some greater or lesser degree a great many of the other winners (and no small number of the presenters) offered their own praises, many to restaurants they grew up in and around, all mingling to continue the strong emphasis on families, legacies, and generational development, all joined in a shared pain and understanding that's hard to explain in a matter that does it justice.

Those waves of pathos led into the regional awards in the America's Classic category. They were given all at once, accompanied by a lovely video compilation highlighting the many characteristics that made each winning establishment the lasting institution they've become.

I'm going to forego the full list of "Best Chef: (Region)" winners here. It'll be in a hundred other places within a day, I'm sure, and my small congratulations won't add much to the avalanche. Likewise with the remaining awards given live- there are many, and to do them justice would take all day.

Overall, this felt like the Beard Association's honest try to do better, and I think they've put in a lot of very messy effort offscreen to make it work. Taking the time to shine a light where others might not bother to look is exactly what an award ceremony like this should be doing. It has massive potential impact to shape the industry, and the opportunity to create lasting positive change shouldn't be held back on in times of chaos and upheaval. 

Besides. If we keep changing the way people see our world, eventually it'll change the way we see ourselves.