Saturday, January 14, 2023

Comfort Food for the Cold and Wet

 Topical, because sweet merciful crap is it raining here.


    There are four inches of standing water in my backyard. I walked to the closest supermarket yesterday- less than half a mile. My hat was soaked, my jacket drenched, my pants wet up past the knees, and my subconscious very grateful that I hadn't bought flour.
    Tiger is also extremely pupset that he has to go out in all this, and I do not blame him one little bit. Can you imagine spending your entire life in a place where it hasn't rained (the drought is older than he is!), and now in your old age you have to go get absolutely sodden every time you want to pee? Poor doggydog. Washed a lot of towels this past week keeping him clean, dry, and happy. But he's worth the trouble.

(Look at the poor beastie. "You want me to do what out there?")

    So the big trick when wet weather has you worn? Make it warm again. 

Soups are the way to go, and the simpler the better. Notable names can sometimes feel a little complicated- menudo, ramen, beef barley, pho, yukgaejang, minestrone, caldo verde, even chicken noodle... but that might be just the sort of distraction you need to forget about the outside! Post holiday season, there may also be cause (or a bone in the freezer) for split pea soup with ham. 

    Perhaps my favorite technique is even simpler- simmer everything you want till tender, then give it a minute with a blender for a smooth puree. Best with things like potato or butternut squash- delightful mild flavors that also make fantastic mediums for a little something extra to brighten a wet and dreary day.

    My personal favorite potato soup is something crafted many years ago by a fellow named Walter while we were working at a place called Tuscarora Mill, in Leesburg VA. We often had mashed potatoes left over from dinner service, and they frequently saw use as a thickener for other soups, or just made into one on their own- some stock, some salt, and suddenly, soup!

    The trick with Walter's was surprisingly simple. Having extra roasted poblano chiles on hand, he peeled them and into the soup they went, pureed with some roasted garlic and a good bit of our house-smoked cheddar cheese. The subtle heat and robust vegetal flavor of the roasted chile added a great deal of depth to a simple potato soup, and the smoked cheddar worked beautifully to round it out. Starch and fat aplenty, infused with flavors strong enough to be obvious, but not enough to be intrusive or overwhelming.

    This works beautifully with most soups centering around a puree of starch. Butternut squash, pumpkin, or sweet potato? Try adding chipotle or curry powder for a big burst of flavor and essentially no effort. Celeriac, turnip, or rutabaga? Maybe some rosemary, a little crumble of some strong cheese, bacon, perhaps some caramelized onion? Pick your favorite herb or spice combination and have at!

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